Climbing routes - Toplita Tarniţa Faleză no. 1

Trails: 1. Wakiya tuwapi 2. Chiarachio 3. Manitou 4. Chanunpa 5. Hihpaye Mazawaka 6. Wacipi ikipi 7. Aka aglala 8. Chingachgook 9. Magua 10. Suta akigle 11. Thathanka Lyotake 12. Thasuuke witko 13. Tawasentha 14. Wakayaja ocanku 15. Tanka ite

General characteristics:   Classic: 4B Artificial Grade: A2 Grade rotpunkt: 7+ Type: Mountaineering Length: 6 LC Height: 190 m Duration: 3 to 4 hours

Route status is relative. The eastern ridge does not have obvious protection in the first 3 lengths, Vânătorii de Munte has orientation problems, the sixth regrouping from "Umbra Muchiei" is made in friends. Access Route: Going down to the keys, about 200 meters ahead of the tunnel, a road crossing the Bicaz heads left. A few years ago here was the Cheile Bicazului Chalet, completely destroyed by a fire. The trail (obviously from place to place) starts in the forest and after about 5 minutes descends to Lapoşului valley where you can pass to the other shore. After another 10 minutes of climbing, you reach a fir tree on which an arrow symbolizes a split. To the left, go to the entrances on most routes, and to the right onto the entrances to the Northwest Pillar and the Classic Route. Retract route: All routes reach the peak. From here, the Classic Route (2-3 bobbins depending on the ropes we have) goes downwards and from the entrance it continues descending to the point of branching.

Route description: LC 1: We start on a light track. Then there is a vertical crack that closes, the steps being in this area. LC 2: It goes up a few meters straight up, then starts in a fairly long traverse to the left. At one point, we have a downward step a little more difficult. It follows the passage of an edge and the entrance to a clear, lighter Bavaria. LC 3: Length 3 starts with the left traverse, this time easier. Then climb vertically through a more friable area. Then there is a long oblique crack left. The steps here are much more delicate. Towards the end, the crack breaks out and climbs over a poorly assured tray, underneath two sloppy dips that move, the next assurance far above. LC 4: It is the longest, the most difficult free climb, but it also works artificially. After a new left-hand traverse, the large crack that bridges the wall is caught. There is a tree after several bad pitches are passed, but there is no problem because there are spits from place to place. There is a hoop and from here we continue on a well-knit vertical die. There are a few steps of free interest, not very heavy. After the dihedral, we are overtaking a completely washed face where it is probably the free step of the route. LC 5: It's short and light. A short straight crossing, then upward on the large sockets into the forest, the final regrouping of the tree. The two lengths can merge.